Cahuita
National Park:
Despite having miles and miles of tropical coastline, Costa Rica
has very little coral reef development. Cahuita National Park was
created in 1970 to protect one of the few such areas in the country,
and thus became Costa Rica's first marine national park (about 600
of the 1,067 hectares protected by the park are under water).
Unfortunately, there is not much live coral
left at Cahuita, although an interesting assortment of marine life
can be seen if the water conditions offer much visibility. While
admiring the colorful fish and curious coral formations, be careful
not to bump into any of the black spiny sea urchins, they're very
painful, and very abundant in these waters.
The relatively small area of "dry"
land contained in the park is quite swampy and has no trails going
through it other than the trail along the beach from the village
of Cahuita to the ranger station area at Puerto Vargas on the opposite
side of Cahuita Point (about 7 km.). Sloths, monkeys, lizards, crabs,
and many kinds of birds can be seen on the walk.
Getting there:
Cahuita is located 42 km. south of Puerto Limón. From the
south end of the village of Cahuita, access to the park is by foot
trail. To drive into the park, go past the turn offs for the village
and continue south until the sign for Puerto Vargas. Buses to and
from Limón run several times a day.
Climate:
Like the rest of the Caribbean lowlands, Cahuita is very warm and
humid, with a chance of rain any day of the year.
History:
Most of the original residents of the village of Cahuita were black
people who had come to Costa Rica via Jamaica in the latter part
of the 1800's to build the railroad or work the banana plantations.
This cultural influence is still very much present in this and the
other small coastal towns to the south (Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo).
Gandoca -
Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge:
A recent addition to the Costa Rican system of parks and refuges
and one of a growing number of protected areas that includes marine
environments, this refuge consists of 5,013 ha. in its terrestrial
portion and 4,436 ha. of marine habitat. The five-kilometer stretch
off the coast from the village of Manzanillo to the area known as
Punta Mona (Monkey Point) is populated by more live coral than is
found on the reef at Cahuita to the north, however, the Manzanillo
corals have not yet developed formations as large as those at Cahuita.
The refuge extends to the Sixaola River,
which forms the border with Panama. Several other important habitats
are protected in the southeastern sector of the refuge, including
a sea turtle nesting beach, an estuary with a large population of
red mangrove that serves as a spawning site for Atlantic Tarpon,
oysters, and many other marine organisms, and a 400 ha. area of
swamp forest in which the most common plant is the Raphia Palm --
a short-trunked palm tree having the distinction of being the plant
with the largest leaves in the world, since each frond can reach
lengths of 12 m. or more.
Getting there:
From Puerto Limón, take the road south towards Cahuita and
Bribri, but after Cahuita take the turn off in Hone Creek for Puerto
Viejo and follow the dirt road all the way to where it ends in Manzanillo.
From Manzanillo you can hike to Punta Mona (min. 5 hrs., round-trip).
There are one or two public buses a day that run from Manzanillo
to Limón.
The southeastern part of the refuge is reached
by driving to Bribri and continuing on to the town of Sixaola where
a boat must be hired to go downriver to the mouth (at least 3 hrs.,
round-trip). An alternative, if you have a 4X4 vehicle or hire a
jeep taxi, is to drive through the banana plantations west of Sixaola
to get to the settlement of Gandoca. In Gandoca, inquire about hiring
a dugout for exploring the Gandoca River estuary. There is direct
bus service from San José all the way to Sixaola.
It is probably safe to venture that the Gandoca-Manzanillo
Wildlife Refuge is one of the least visited reserves in the National
Park system.
Fishing:
Although potential ought to exist in the area with the important
estuaries, no industry or facilities have yet been developed.
Climate:
Very warm and humid, the driest months are March and April.
History:
The inclusion of this area in the National Park system is in large
part due to the efforts of a group known as ANAI (Asociación
de los Nuevos Alquimistas) that has its roots in the New Alchemy
Institute in North Carolina. A group of people belonging to this
organization have been working in the region for several decades
in projects concerning tropical agriculture systems and appropriate
technology and saw the need to protect the remaining bits of land
still in their natural state.
Hitoy
- Cerere Biological Reserve:
This 9,154 ha. reserve on the interior side of the Valle de la Estrella
protects a remote and relatively unexplored area of rain forest.
Trails through the forest are limited in extent and tend to be very
muddy. One of the best ways of penetrating the reserve is to walk
the river beds upstream. This is also a good way to be able to glimpse
the strikingly patterned Sunbittern, a bird that frequents tropical
streams.
Just getting to the reserve can make for
an interesting all-day adventure (see "Getting there").
Huge colonies of Montezuma Oropendolas and Chestnut-headed Oropendolas,
large members of the oriole family with bright yellow tails, can
be found nesting in the valley from January to August. Nest trees
are easy to spot since they sport dozens of meter-long hanging pouch
nests that the birds so expertly weave.
Getting there:
From Limón, drive towards Cahuita and turn right at the sign
for Penshurst (about 34 km. from Puerto Limón). In about
nine kilometers you will reach the extensive banana plantations
of the Estrella River Valley, where navigation becomes a bit tricky
and even claustrophobic as you drive for nearly 10 kilometers through
a seemingly endless maze of bananas (it's a good idea to ask directions
of people you encounter). Once beyond the banana plantations, the
dirt road begins to rise above the valley floor and offers some
nice vistas. Four-wheel-drive will also be necessary during these
last 14 kilometers to the reserve entrance.
Climate:
Be prepared for rain. The daytime temperatures are warm, but given
that the reserve is at an elevation of several hundred meters, it
could get a bit cool if you are camping overnight.
History:
The name of this reserve comes from the two main rivers that run
through it, the Hitoy and the Cerere. These are names in the Bribri
language which mean "moss-covered" and "clear waters,"
respectively.
The epicenter of the April 1991 quake that
damaged much of the province, was located near the biological reserve
which suffered numerous landslides and tree falls.
Peñas
Blancas National Wildlife Refuge:
Another fairly recent addition to the National Wildlife Refuge system,
the 2,400 ha. Peñas Blancas Refuge was declared to protect
what remained of three different forest types on the slopes of this
region. While already significantly deforested, the lower portions
of the refuge contain examples of tropical dry forest. Going up
higher inelevation, you will encounter tropical moist forest, and
as you approach the ridge, premontane moist forest, characterized
by the predominance of live oaks.
Given the disturbed nature of much of the
original habitat, wildlife viewing opportunities here are less than
superlative, though the more common and widespread mammal species
are present, as are a wide variety of birds due to the occurrence
of three distinct life zones. However, there are no visitor facilities
in the refuge, nor is the area itself well-marked.
Getting there:
Take the PanAmerican Highway to the Miramar exit (6 km. north of
Barranca). From Miramar, take the road out of town to the east (ask
directions for Sabana Bonita). Beyond Sabana Bonita, take the left
fork at the T-intersection which will bring you to the village of
Peñas Blancas. A four-wheel-drive may be necessary, depending
on what the current road conditions are.
Climate:
Warm in the lower sector of the refuge and cooling as you gain elevation,
the rainy season is from May to November.
Guayabo,
Negritos and Pájaros Islands Biological Reserves:
These four unpopulated islands (Negritos consists of two islands)
in the Gulf of Nicoya were included in the national park system
as biological reserves to protect seabird nesting colonies and to
spare them from tourism or other development. The park service maintains
no facilities for visitors on any of the islands, nor are there
any trails to speak of.
Essentially steep-walled chunks of rock jutting
above the ocean's surface, these islands support low, scrubby, dry
forest vegetation. The thin soil and limited annual rainfall combine
to produce harsh conditions for plant growth. However, the western
Negritos island once had someone living on it, as is surmised from
the remains of a wooden house and various introduced fruit trees.
Pre-Columbian pottery fragments found on the same island indicate
that it may have been used as a burial site by the previous inhabitants
of the Nicoya Peninsula.
Getting there:
Probably the easiest way to see the Guayabo and Negritos Islands
is to take one of the daily cruises from Puntarenas to Tortuga Island,
since the route taken on these excursions passes by these islands.
Likewise, the ferry from Puntarenas to Paquera also passes near
Guayabo Island.
The only other alternative for closer examination
of these island biological reserves would be to hire a small boat
to take you out to them. This could possibly be done in the village
of Paquera, or to visit Isla Pájaros, in the village of Costa
de Pájaros located 21 kilometers off the PanAmerican Highway,
north of Puntarenas.
Climate:
Hot and sunny most days of the year. The small amount of rain that
does affect these islands falls between May and November.
Curú
National Wildlife Refuge :
The mere 84 ha. of this coastal refuge are effectively enlarged
by being part of the 1,214 ha. farm that surrounds the reserve and
protects much more forested habitat than the typical farm/ranch
found in the region. The ecological-mindedness of the Shutz family,
the farm's proprietors, has maintained natural habitat along the
ridges, rivercourses, and beach areas in the refuge and the farm.
Several trails traverse the area and permit good wildlife viewing
opportunities.
White-throated Capuchin Monkeys tend to be
quite easily seen in the refuge, as are White-nosed Coatis, Variegated
Squirrels, Nine-banded Armadillos, and White-tailed Deer. The bird
life is representative of the tropical dry forest and includes Black-headed
Trogons, Turquoise-browed Motmots, Rose-throated Becards, Thicket
Tinamous, Lesser Ground-Cuckoos, and Canivet's Emeralds.
Additionally, an area of mangrove swamp and
three picturesque beaches are part of the refuge. The largest beach,
Curú Beach, is an excellent swimming beach with very little
wave action. The crystalline waters off the other two beaches, Poza
Colorada and Quesera, offer good snorkeling around some coral formations.
On top of Quesera Point a large shell midden can be seen that is
evidence of pre-Columbian habitation of this easterly end of the
Nicoya Peninsula.
Getting there:
From Puntarenas, take the Paquera ferry (lancha) across the gulf.
The entrance to the farm is 5 km. south of Paquera, and from the
farm gate (first one on your left after leaving Paquera) to the
refuge is another 1.5 km. Phone: 661-2392.
Fishing:
Although located on the Pacific coast, this area is not known as
one of the deep-sea fishing hot spots, perhaps because it is too
far into the Gulf of Nicoya or because of overfishing by the regional
fishermen(?).
Climate:
Hot and sunny mornings are the norm throughout the year. Afternoon
showers are a possibility from May through November.
History:
The desire of the late Federico Shutz and his family to spare this
beautiful beach area from development and overharvesting of its
marine resources, led to the creation of the sin 1983.
Cabo
Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve:
Occupying 1,172 ha. on the extreme southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula,
Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve predates the creation of the
National Park Service system, to which it now belongs. Despite its
restrictive sounding administrative category, visitors are allowed
into the reserve, even though they are only permitted to use one
of the existing trails.
The southern portion of the peninsula receives
more rain than the area to the north which results in a different
look and feel to the forest. Cabo Blanco is characterized by tropical
moist forest with many evergreen areas, although numerous plant
species found in the tropical dry forest also occur here. One of
these is the spiny cedar, or pochote, which can be identified by
the sharp, conical spines protruding from the bark. The white "shaving
brush" flowers are pollinated at night by bats.
Animals that can be seen in the daytime here
include the Variegated Squirrel, Mantled Howler Monkey, White-throated
Capuchin Monkey, Central American Agouti, White-nosed Coati, and
with some luck even the Jaguarundi, the most diurnal of Costa Rica's
six species of wild cats. The variety of habitats from rocky coastline
to marsh to moist forest provide homes to many other kinds of creatures,
too.
While it is extremely unlikely that you will
run into any Procompsognathus, the small prehistoric scavengers
that escaped to Cabo Blanco from Jurassic Park in Michael Crichton's
novel, there is an area along the beach at the southern end of the
cape where marine fossils dating back at least 20 million years
can be found in the exposed rocks. An extinct species of giant oyster
is among the more common fossils.
Offshore from the point lies Cabo Blanco
("White Cape") Island, from whence the area's name is
derived. This rugged piece of rock is devoid of plant life, but
harbors abundant roosting seabirds. It is estimated that more than
800 Brown Boobies alone live here, making it the largest colony
of this species in Costa Rica. The accumulated guano from so many
birds causes the white color visible from the mainland.
Getting there:
The reserve lies 11 km. south of the funky beach village of Montezuma
(the nearest accommodations). From Montezuma, a four-wheel-drive
vehicle is practically a necessity, even during the dry season.
Transportation can be arranged for in Montezuma.
To get to Montezuma, take the Paquera ferry
from Puntarenas and then continue south for approximately 40 km.
There is also public bus service to Montezuma from the village of
Relleno where the ferry docks.
Fishing:
The rich concentration of nutrients from the seabird colony on Cabo
Blanco provides for abundant fish life around the point and ocean
currents bring in pelagic species such as billfish and tuna making
for excellent sport fishing opportunities. Charter services out
of Puntarenas and hotels on the southern portion of the peninsula
and even the Jacó area can all reach this spot on a day's
outing.
Climate:
Even though this sector of the Nicoya Peninsula receives an average
of 2.3 meters of rain annually, making it the wettest part of the
region, there is still a pronounced dry season from December through
April. Being a lowland site, expect temperatures to be hot in the
daytime and pleasant in the evening.
History:
Cabo Blanco received its protected status in 1963, due primarily
to the efforts of the late Olof Wessberg, who a decade earlier had
come to Costa Rica from his native Sweden. Living on a farm in the
southern end of the Nicoya Peninsula, Wessberg was saddened by the
amount of deforestation in the region and took steps to interest
the government in doing something to save a patch of remaining forest.
He was instrumental in gaining the financial support of conservation
organizations in Sweden, England, Austria, and the U.S. Enough funds
were contributed to allow the purchase and administration of what
is now Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve.
Carara
Biological Reserve:
The 4,700 ha. Carara Biological Reserve occupies a unique position
at the transition zone between tropical moist forest and tropical
wet forest in the Pacific lowlands. Though most of the vegetation
in the reserve remains evergreen and is characteristic of the wet
forest life zone, there are a number of species that lose their
leaves during the dry season, showing their affinity to the drier
climate found north of the reserve.
However, Carara's main attraction for most
visitors is its wildlife, and star billing goes to the Scarlet Macaw.
These large, raucous members of the parrot family add a bright splash
of primary colors to the overall green of the rain forest, although
at times it is amazing how difficult they can be to see in a leafy
tree. It is estimated that about 150 of these blatant birds feed
and nest in the reserve. When not brooding eggs or young, they roost
in mangroves several kilometers away.
In addition to this and other colorful tropical
species, the forest is home to many somber-hued bird species that
often travel together in mixed flocks that are a true delight (and
challenge!) to birdwatchers. Of the many kinds of birds that can
be found in such flocks, a few of the more common ones are the Black-hooded
Antshrike, Dot-winged Antwren, Long-billed Gnatwren, Chestnut-backed
Antbird, and Lesser Greenlet.
Although the reserve is too small to provide
sufficient territory to the larger cats, it does maintain populations
of Margay, Ocelot, and Jaguarundi. Collared Peccaries, Central American
Agoutis, Banded Anteaters, and White-nosed Coatis may be spotted
as they go about their daily routines.
Reptiles and amphibians are well-represented in Carara, though most
species are either cryptic or nocturnal and therefore not readily
seen. Of the frogs, one species that is fairly common and active
during the day is the Harlequin Poison-dart Frog, a handsome creature
that is charcoal black with fluorescent green markings. On sunny
mornings, whiptail lizards are frequently encountered along the
forest trails basking in flecks of light that reach down through
the canopy to the ground.
A truly memorable spectacle is standing by
the Tarcoles River bridge before sunset and watching the Scarlet
Macaws fly out to roost (literally flying into the sunset). Shortly
after dawn, the birds make the return flight back to the reserve.
While at the bridge, scan the river banks for American Crocodiles.
These grotesque-looking reptiles are very abundant along this stretch
of the river and the biggest ones can measure nearly 4 meters.
Getting there:
From San José, take the PanAmerican Highway west to the Atenas
exit, and follow the old highway through the mountains to the town
of Orotina where you rejoin a more modern highway. Take the Jacó
turnoff and follow this coastal highway south until you come to
the bridge over the Tarcoles River. The reserve begins at the river,
but the administration building is another three kilometers farther
down the highway.
By car, it is less than two hours from San
José to the reserve headquarters. Public buses going to Jacó
or Quepos/Manuel Antonio will let you off at the reserve.
Climate:
Hot and humid, even during most of the dry season which lasts from
January through April. The forest transpires sufficient moisture
to cause sporadic showers to fall occasionally in the dry months
helping the vegetation to stay evergreen. At the height of the rainy
season (August to October), portions of the reserve near the river
and other smaller streams often become inundated from the heavy
rains.
History:
The existence of this marvelous example of tropical wet forest in
the midst of an area that has otherwise been seriously altered by
the effects of deforestation is owed to the fact that before being
included in the national park system, Carara was part of a huge
cattle ranch known as "El Coyolar." The ranch was so extensive
that there apparently was never a need to cut the forest in this
hilly "back 40."
When the ranch was taken over by the Costa
Rican Land Reform Agency in the mid-1970's and parceled off in small
farms, fortunately someone with foresight realized the ecological
value of the forested sector and the area was declared a biological
reserve to be administered by the young park service.
Ten years after its creation, Carara was
still relatively unknown and seldom visited even though a paved
highway passed right in front of it. However, as tourism has grown
tremendously in the country, Carara is now one of the five most
visited sites in the entire national park system.
Manuel
Antonio National Park:
With a mere 682 ha. of land area, Manuel Antonio is one of the smallest
of Costa Rica's national parks. However, with its idyllic beaches,
excellent wildlife viewing opportunities, relative ease of access,
and good surrounding infrastructure, this is one of the country's
most visited parks.
Part of the park's scenic beauty is provided
by Cathedral Point, a 72 meter-high point of land that is covered
by rain forest. The point was formerly an island just off the mainland,
but ocean currents caused the deposition of sand between the two
until eventually they were connected, forming a geological feature
known as a tombolo. The park's two most frequented beaches, Manuel
Antonio and Espadilla Sur, are the sandy arcs on either side of
the narrow strip of land that joins Cathedral Point with the mainland.
Due to the diminutive size of the park and
the quantity of visitors it receives, much of the wildlife that
can still be found here is quite accustomed to human presence and
will allow close approach, particularly the White-throated Capuchin
Monkeys, Central American Squirrel Monkeys, Brown-throated Three-toed
Sloths, White-nosed Coatis, Central American Agoutis and Ctenosaur
Lizards. [Note: These are still wild animals and should be respected
and treated as such, enjoy the opportunity for a close look, but
do not attempt to touch or feed them!]
This is one of the best places in Costa Rica
to see Brown-throated Three-toed Sloths. These fascinating, but
slow-moving animals feed exclusively on plant material -- the low-energy
diet results in their slow metabolism -- and though they are known
to eat the leaves of more than 100 species of trees and vines, they
are most easily seen when feeding (or resting) in Cecropia trees.
Cecropias are common pioneer trees with large
palmate leaves and ringed trunks that make them easy to recognize.
The abundance of cecropias and other second growth species in the
park is probably in part responsible for the high sloth population.
This is also one of only two areas in the
country where the endangered Central American Squirrel Monkey is
found. These are the smallest of the four monkey species in Costa
Rica, and the only ones without a prehensile tail. They forage actively
for insects and fruit in large groups of 30 or more individuals.
Butterflies, birds, and large colorful land
crabs are more of the plentiful inhabitants that provide interest
during a trail walk through the park. And, if the waters are clear
enough, a variety of marine life can be seen by snorkeling around
the rocky ends of either beach.
Getting there:
Manuel Antonio is approximately four hours from San José
by car, taking the PanAmerican Highway west to the Atenas exit,
and following the old highway through the mountains to the town
of Orotina where you rejoin a more modern highway. Take the Jacó
turnoff and follow this coastal highway south to the town of Quepos.
From here it's 7 km. to Manuel Antonio. There is regular public
bus service to/from San José, but tickets should be purchased
in advance, especially during peak tourism periods (from December
through March and on weekends).
Flying on the local commercial airlines is
another alternative. The flight takes about 18 minutes and the airstrip
is about 20 minutes from Manuel Antonio.
The park itself is entered by crossing a
small estuary near where it empties into the ocean. At low tide,
this rivulet is usually no more than ankle-deep, but at extreme
high tides it can be as much as a meter and a half deep! Either
time your coming and going accordingly, or be prepared to get wet.
Fishing:
The Quepos area is the center for sportfishing in the Central Pacific
region of Costa Rica with several charter services operating here.
Most anglers are going for billfish which provide plenty of action
throughout the year, but especially from December through April.
Tuna, dorado, and roosterfish are other reliable alternatives when
not seeking sailfish and marlin.
Climate:
Though hot and humid throughout the year, the shade produced by
the evergreen vegetation and the gentle sea breezes help to ameliorate
the heat. The dry season extends from December to April, nearly
4 meters of rainfall is the average accumulation during the remaining
months of the year.
History:
The creation of Manuel Antonio National Park was another victory
for conservation. Although the area had been in private hands for
some time, the public had always been allowed to use the beaches.
However, when the property was bought by a North American in 1968,
things changed. Padlocked gates and fences were put up to keep people
out, leading to great discontent among the local inhabitants, who
reacted with acts of vandalism.
The local municipal government decreed that
access to the beach could not be restricted (this is actually a
nationwide law), and the American ended up selling the land to a
Frenchman. This new owner apparently had plans to develop the site
into a tourism facility, but before he could do so, the land was
expropriated by the government and in November of 1972, Manuel Antonio
National Park was officially declared, even though the funds to
pay for the land acquisition were not completely obtained until
1975.
Ironically, since the mid-1980's, the park
service has maintained a locked gate policy on the service road
entrance to the park. This one-lane wide gravel road, known as the
Perezoso Trail for its abundance of Three-toed Sloths, is a wonderful
place for nature observation without having to cross through the
estuary by the main entrance -- if only you were allowed to go in
this way.
Ballena
Marine National Park:
This is one of a number of new parks designed to preserve Costa
Rica's varied, abundant, but largely unstudied marine resources.
The name "ballena" is Spanish for whale and reportedly
the offshore waters in this part of the country are used as a wintering
area by several species of migratory whales, including Humpback
Whales and Pilot Whales. Undoubtedly, the most common marine mammals
in the vicinity are Spotted Dolphins which are year-round residents.
Since almost the entire park is marine environment,
there obviously are no trails, however, for those interested in
diving and snorkeling there are good opportunities around the small
islands of Ballena and Las Tres Hermanas.
Getting there:
The best way to visit this park is by boat, however, it's a fairly
long way from either Quepos or Drake's Bay (more than 40 km.), the
two nearest areas with much tourism development and boats equipped
for making the run. Eventually (it could still be decades), the
government plans to complete the southern portion of the coastal
highway between Quepos and Palmar. If the existing dirt road is
ever improved it will open up the terrestrial access to this area.
Fishing:
Theoretically, the sport fishing in this part of the country ought
to be good, although these waters are not often fished owing to
their distance from the established charter operations in the region.
Climate: Wet.
La
Amistad International Park:
The name of this huge wilderness area translates as the International
Friendship Park and derives from the fact that it extends into neighboring
Panama. The Costa Rican portion accounts for about half of the total
area and is in itself the largest protected area in the country
with more than 190,000 ha.
The majority of the park's territory is in
the province of Limón on the Caribbean side of the Talamanca
Cordillera. However, this sector of the park is very difficult to
reach, thus, all three existing ranger stations are located on the
Pacific side of the ridge. Hiking into the park from any of these
entrances will bring you through a variety of life zones as you
continue uphill. Lower montane wet forest, characterized by impressive
oak forests where Resplendent Quetzals dwell, is one of the principal
habitats encountered on the way up to the higher peaks where low-growing
paramo vegetation occurs on the highest summits along the ridge.
For the most part, though, the trails through this region are not
well-marked.
Given the immense size of the park and the
variety of life zones it contains, it has been estimated that at
least 60% of all the animal species in the country, from termites
to primates, can be found within its boundaries. (The only problem
is getting to the boundaries and then beyond.)
Getting there:
All three ranger stations are located on the southern slopes of
the Talamanca Cordillera. From San José, take the PanAmerican
Highway south beyond the town of Buenos Aires to the Paso Real ferry
crossing over the Río Grande de Térraba. Once across
the river it is only a few kilometers to the Potrero Grande turnoff
which leads eventually to the Helechales guard post, 14 km. past
Potrero Grande. Four-wheel-drive will likely be necessary on this
last stretch.
To get to the other two stations, ignore
the Potrero Grande turnoff and continue on the paved road to San
Vito. Drive northeast out of San Vito to the Las Mellizas ranger
station, about 40 km. There is public bus service from San Vito
to Las Mellizas.
The La Escuadra ranger station can be reached
by driving north out of San Vito toward the village of Santa Elena
(there is also public bus service this far) and then hiking to the
village of Agua Caliente and the remaining 14 km. to the guard post.
Climate:
The climate is cool and damp at all three of the park ranger stations,
and gets colder as you hike up to the top of the ridges. February
and March are the driest months.
Corcovado National
Park:
Among tropical biologists and naturalists the name "Corcovado"
has taken on almost mythical significance. The fabled reputation
of this vast tract of tropical rain forest (41,788 ha.) is not without
justification.
The forests themselves, especially those
on the ridges and hillsides, have a natural magnificence about them
that inspires reverence. Many of the largest trees that grow to
heights of 50 meters or more sport enormous buttresses around their
bases. Upon close inspection, a botanist could discover as many
as 100 different species of trees on any given hectare in this habitat.
And that's just trees! Consider all of the varied kinds of vines,
shrubs, and epiphytes and you've got an incredibly diverse flora.
Such varied plant life forms the base for
a tremendously diverse fauna, from insects on up. For example, it
has been estimated that as many as 10,000 insect species may inhabit
Corcovado, and researchers have identified 42 species of frogs,
28 species of lizards, 123 species of butterflies, and 16 species
of hummingbirds. All six species of felines found in Costa Rica
are known to exist in this wilderness area, as are the four native
species of monkeys. Additionally, Corcovado supports the country's
largest populations of White-lipped Peccaries and Scarlet Macaws,
both greatly endangered species due to loss of habitat and hunting
or trapping by man.
This great biological diversity still exists
in Corcovado because of its remoteness and the fact that most of
the park has suffered relatively little disturbance by humans in
the past.
For serious backpackers, Corcovado offers
a trail system (although much of this is along hot, open beaches)
between the six different ranger stations where you can camp with
prior permission.
Admission policy:
If you are interested in staying overnight at any of the park ranger
stations, prior permission and reservations are necessary and can
be obtained through the park headquarters in Puerto Jiménez
(Phone: 735-5036).
Getting there:
The quickest and easiest way to get into Corcovado National Park
is to fly in a single-engine charter plane and land at the Sirena
ranger station airstrip. This is a truly memorable experience in
itself, unfortunately, it is also relatively expensive. Flights
to Sirena can be arranged with any of several companies at the Pavas
airport (west of San José) or at the airport in Golfito.
Perhaps the best way to visit Corcovado without
really roughing it is to stay at one of the nature lodges in the
Drake's Bay area. From these lodges day trips can be made (by boat)
to the northwestern sector of the park at San Pedrillo. The lodge
or your travel agency can make arrangements for you to fly to the
Palmar airport on a regularly scheduled commercial flight, be driven
to the town of Sierpe, and then taken by boat through a large mangrove
system and out the mouth of the Sierpe River into the ocean and
across to Drake's Bay -- something of an adventure in its own right.
The other alternatives for those with backpacks
are to get to the towns of La Palma or Puerto Jiménez on
the Golfo Dulce side of the Osa Peninsula and hike into the interior
of the park, or continue all the way around the tip of the peninsula
to the settlement of Carate and hike into the park along the beach.
Fishing:
Several of the lodges in the Drake's Bay area offer the option of
deep-sea fishing. The region is particularly well-known for its
abundance of Wahoo, Roosterfish, and Pacific Cubera Snapper, but
billfish and tuna are also out there.
Climate:
If it weren't for the high heat and humidity and more than four
meters of average annual rainfall, this area wouldn't have rain
forest. The driest months of the year are February, March, and April,
the wettest are September and October.
History:
In the mid-1930's, when settlement of the country's southern Pacific
region was being spurred by the development of banana plantations,
hunters that ventured into this area discovered gold nuggets along
several of the rivers that cut through the hilly southern portion
of what is today Corcovado National Park. The resulting "gold
fever" brought numerous fortune-seekers into the areas known
as Madrigal and Carate, where this activity in the form of placer
mining can still be seen outside of the park limits.
When the park was created in 1975, the few
miners that were working inside the newly formed boundaries were
permitted to stay since their activities were seen as being beneficial
to the national economy. However, the number of miners in the park
continued to increase (and so did damage to the stream ecosystems
and the larger species of wildlife -- read: "fresh meat")
until in 1986 there were some 1,000 people involved. The situation
had gotten so out of hand that the park was closed to the public
for several months while the rangers, assisted by hundreds of rural
policeman from throughout the country, evicted the miners.
That drastic action has not totally solved
the problem, but the incidence of illegal gold mining inside the
park is much less now.
The park owes its existence to the international
scientific community's concern for tropical rain forest conservation.
Since its inception, the National Park Service had been interested
in including this expansive and ecologically invaluable tract of
forest in the park system, but unfortunately, funding and public
opinion did not permit the purchase of such a remote piece of land.
However, in 1975, several potentially critical
problems came to the government's attention. An increase in the
number of families homesteading in this part of the Osa Peninsula,
the threat of a large-scale logging operation by an international
lumbering consortium that held title to much of the area's land,
and reports of excessive hunting, caused the region to become a
matter of concern.
Foreign scientists who had worked in this
wonderfully diverse habitat petitioned the then-President, the late
Daniel Oduber, to take measures to protect this national resource.
They were also of great help in obtaining international donations
to fund part of the land acquisition necessary to get the squatters
and the lumber company to leave the area. But in the end it was
the interest with which President Oduber himself attended to the
situation that made Corcovado National Park a reality and earned
him the Albert Schweitzer award from the Animal Welfare Institute
for his efforts.
Caño
Island Biological Reserve:
This 300-hectare island rises 30 meters above the ocean's surface
and is clearly visible from the western end of the Osa Peninsula,
some 15 kilometers away. The distance was not an obstacle to the
pre-Columbian peoples that inhabited the mainland and utilized the
island as a burial site. Not only did they ferry their dead across
this stretch of open water, but they also transported large spherical
stones to the cemetery on top of the island. Some of these can still
be seen today together with fragments of pottery and stoneware left
behind by careless tomb robbers during the latter half of the 20th
century.
The diversity of plant and animal species
on Caño Island pales in comparison to that of Corcovado National
Park on the nearby mainland. For example, fewer than 60 species
of trees and only 4 species of orchids are known to grow on the
island. Likewise, there are just 4 species each of snakes, lizards,
and frogs on the island, and only a dozen kinds of birds breed on
this offshore sanctuary. This paucity of terrestrial flora and fauna
results from the isolating effects of being an island.
However, where Caño really comes into
its own in terms of diversity is in its marine realm. The oceanic
sector of the reserve protects 5,800 ha. of marine habitat surrounding
the island. A mask, snorkel, and fins are all you need to appreciate
the abundance and variety of aquatic life just below the surface.
The beach in front of the ranger station is a good swimming beach
and the submerged rocks on either side provide hours of snorkeling
entertainment with such colorful fish as Moorish Idols, Blue Parrotfish,
King Angelfish, Spotted Sharpnose Puffers, Barberfish, and Rainbow
Wrasses. Scuba diving is also permitted at one or two sites.
Along the little stream that flows beside
the ranger station you can get good looks at the so-called Jesus
Christ Lizard doing its thing. More properly termed Lineated Basilisk
Lizards, these brownish reptiles can't actually walk across water,
but they do run across the surface, reared up on their hind legs
so that the flaps of skin on their long toes spread out and function
as miniature paddles. The little ones are best at executing this
startling maneuver, but if you find a fully developed adult male
with its head crest and dorsal fins, you will be looking at an awe-inspiring
creature.
Getting there:
Access is by boat only. Most visitors to the island come from the
lodges in the Drake's Bay area. (The lodge or your travel agency
can make arrangements for you to fly to the Palmar airport on a
regularly scheduled commercial flight, be driven to the town of
Sierpe, and then taken by boat through a large mangrove system and
out the mouth of the Sierpe River into the ocean and across to Drake's
Bay.)
Fishing:
Several of the lodges in the Drake's Bay area offer the option of
deep-sea fishing. The waters around the island are particularly
well-known for their abundance of Wahoo, Roosterfish, and Pacific
Cubera Snapper, but billfish and tuna are also out there.
Climate:
Caño Island receives even more precipitation than the adjacent
mainland, and so is hot and very humid all year long. From February
through April is the driest part of the year.
History:
There is much conjecture about the use of the island in pre-Columbian
times. Some researchers suggest that the island was actually inhabited
at some point. Most assume it was used only as a final resting place,
and many assert that this form of interment was reserved only for
the more privileged members of the native societies. Sadly, due
to the ransacking of the burial sites prior to any investigations
by archeologists, we will probably never know with final certainty
the exact role that the island played in these vanished cultures.
Caño Island was first given protection
as part of Corcovado National Park in 1976. The declaration came
in response to a well-organized outcry by the Costa Rican Association
of Biologists which in 1973 protested energetically against the
leasing of the island to a foreign company with plans to develop
it for international tourism. The result was a victory for local
conservationists, and one in which scientific arguments outweighed
economic interests in the final decision.
Eventually the National Park Service gave
the island its own administration by separating it from Corcovado
and making it a biological reserve.
Golfito
National Wildlife Refuge:
Similar in many respects to the much larger Corcovado National Park,
this small, 1,309 ha. refuge offers easy access to tropical rain
forest. In fact, to get to the forest from the town of Golfito,
all you have to do is walk in any direction -- except into the ocean.
Due to its proximity to town, this forest
has suffered the effects of hunting and many of the larger birds
and mammals that are still found in Corcovado are no longer likely
at the Golfito refuge. However, the plant life and the smaller species
of fauna are very representative of the region's rain forests. The
Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager is a small, darkish bird known only from
this southern corner of the country and has not even been reported
from neighboring Panama.
Other bird species with limited distributions
that can be found in this area are the Yellow-billed Cotinga, Golden-naped
Woodpecker, Orange-collared Manakin, Riverside Wren, and Baird's
Trogon. Birdwatching can be quite good along the seven-kilometer
gravel road that ascends to the radio towers on the ridge behind
town.
Of interest to botanists and foresters is
a tree species in the genus Caryodaphnopsis which has been discovered
growing in the refuge but is unknown from anywhere else in Costa
Rica. This genus, related to the avocado, is represented in the
New World by one other species which occurs in the Peruvian Amazon.
The rest of the genus is found in the Orient.
Getting there: From San José
take the PanAmerican Highway south towards Panama. At the town of
Río Claro, take the turnoff for Golfito. Total distance is
342 km. Public bus service also exists between San José and
Golfito.
Alternatively, two domestic commercial airline
companies offer regular service between San José and Golfito.
Fishing:
The Golfito region's reputation as a sportfishing destination is
growing fast. At least 8 charter operators currently cater to fishermen
that venture this far south. Billfish can be found most of the year,
although they normally slack off between April and June. The remainder
of the catch consists of jacks, mackerel, snappers, snook, and big
roosters.
Climate:
Like the rest of the southern Pacific lowlands, the weather is hot
and humid with a short dry season from January to April.
History:
When the United Fruit Company moved its banana growing operation
to the southern part of Costa Rica in the mid-1930's, Golfito was
chosen as the site for a port because of its protected waters. It
also became the principal living area for many of the higher level
administrators, including the international staff -- who imported
many non-native ornamental plant species into the area, thus making
Golfito of additional appeal for those with an interest in botanical
curiosities.
Due to the rugged topography surrounding
the port town, the area's forests were spared from conversion to
banana monocultures and it was these forests that the government
decided to protect with the declaration of the Golfito National
Wildlife Refuge in the late 1980s, partly to assure the town's water
supply.
As a result of a prolonged worker strike
marred by violence, the banana company decided to abandon its activities
in this region in the mid-1980's. This caused an immediate economic
crisis for the local population. One of the government's attempts
to help solve the situation was to stimulate tourism to this area
so distant from the center of the country. A large duty-free shopping
complex was built to attract Costa Ricans that often travel to Panama
to buy at bargain prices. With the creation of the wildlife refuge
it was also hoped that more foreign tourism would come to this small
tropical port town.
Cocos
Island National Park:
All alone in the Pacific Ocean, this 2,400 hectare island of ancient
volcanic rock rises to a height of 634 meters and is covered with
luxuriant rain forest. Isolated as it is, few species of plants
and animals have managed to colonize its shores over the ages, and
of those that have, many of evolved into distinct forms from those
that originally reached the island. As on islands everywhere, this
process has resulted in the creation of endemics -- species found
nowhere else in the world.
Among the endemic creatures of Cocos Island
are 2 species of small lizards, 65 insects, various types of freshwater
fishes, and three birds, the Cocos Cuckoo, Cocos Flycatcher, and
Cocos Finch. This last species is related to the famous Darwin's
finches of the Galapagos Islands, several hundred kilometers to
the south.
Unfortunately, one way that some species
reach remote islands is through introductions by man. In the case
of Cocos, humans have been responsible for bringing pigs, cats,
goats, and white-tailed deer to the island, as well as plants such
as coffee and guava. These non-native species can often cause great
damage to the existing flora and fauna, which has happened on Cocos,
especially with the pigs and cats.
What draws most visitors to Cocos, however,
is the incredible diving experience it offers to those willing to
venture the voyage. The visibility in the waters around the island
is exceptional and the quantity and variety of marine life is simply
astounding. The greatest thrill for most divers is witnessing the
huge schools of Hammerhead Sharks that are notoriously famous in
these waters, although fortunately not known to be aggressive towards
humans.
Getting there:
From the port of Puntarenas, navigate on a southwest course for
620 km. and you can't miss it. Actually, since Cocos Island is so
far away from the Costa Rican mainland, the only feasible way of
visiting the island is with one of the live-aboard diving ships
that offer 10-day tours (6 days are spent at the island since it
takes about 36 hours traveling time each way). That is, of course,
unless you have a private yacht.
Fishing:
The opportunities are unimaginable, but its a helluva long way to
go just to fish!
History:
Tales of pirates and buried treasure are commonly associated with
Cocos Island and it is said that this isolated spot was the inspiration
for Robert Louis Stevenson's novel, Treasure Island.
Supposedly the island was used as a hideout
by buccaneers during colonial times, due to its remoteness, abundance
of fresh water, and safe anchorage in both Wafer and Chatham Bays.
To have a source of fresh meat each time they returned to the island,
these ocean-going outlaws released pigs and goats on the island
(causing serious ecological damage to the island's plant life, but
this obviously was of no concern to them).
At least three treasures are rumored to have
been buried on the island, one by Capt. Edward Davis in 1685, another
by Benito Bonito in 1820, and the third a year later by Capt. William
Thompson. This final booty was the legendary "Treasure of Lima."
As far as is known, although hundreds of attempts have been made
to unearth the treasures, none have been successful in finding anything
more than a few doubloons.
Scientists and naturalists agree, however,
that the greatest riches to be found here are the biological ones.
It was the uniqueness of the island's flora and fauna along with
the bountiful marine life that earned the island its place among
the Costa Rican national parks via an Executive Decree in 1978.
Unfortunately, this status alone has not
been adequate in protecting the area's marine resources. Numerous
reports cite cases of sharks being caught for their fins, and after
these have been removed, the animals are tossed back into the sea
to die an agonizing death. Illegal fishing continues to be a problem
within the park's jurisdiction as insufficient manpower and funding
leave the park service incapable of effectively confronting the
situation.
Recently, the Cousteau Society, at the invitation
of former Costa Rican President, Rodrigo Carazo, has shown great
interest in helping to protect the island's marine inhabitants and
hopefully adequate protection will be achieved in the future.
Chirripó
National Park:
Known as the home of Costa Rica's highest peak, Mount Chirripó,
images of stunted alpine vegetation and bare rock are most often
associated with this park. Nonetheless, the 50,150 hectares that
comprise the park actually contain a variety of other fascinating
ecosystems and on the 10-hour hike to the shelters on top of the
mountain one passes through lower montane rain forest and montane
rain forest, before finally emerging into subalpine rain paramo.
The high humidity and abundant precipitation foster the luxuriant
growth of mosses, bromeliads, and other epiphytes on the trunks
and branches of the forest trees, of which the predominant species
are several types of truly majestic live oaks (Quercus spp.).
As the tree line is neared, the vegetation
becomes more and more stunted until at an elevation of about 3,300
meters the paramo begins. This is a conglomeration of low-growing
plants that have evolved various adaptations for dealing with the
harsh climate at the summit which is characterized by intense ultraviolet
radiation, abrupt temperature change, high rainfall, and frequent
frosts.
But don't despair, the weather could be worse!
Ample geologic evidence is present on the summit of the Chirripó
massif to indicate that some 25,000 years ago the area was covered
by glacial ice. This glacier formed during the last of the Great
Ice Ages when much of the northern hemisphere was also beneath ice,
although the Chirripó glacier was not connected to those
glaciers. A dozen or more small glacial lakes, piles of rounded
rocks (moraines), and U-shaped valleys are all mute testimony to
the existence of the former ice cover.
Admission policy:
Due to the limited space at the shelters, advance reservations are
necessary before making the climb up Mount Chirripó. To make
reservations you must go to the National Park Service offices in
San José on calle 25, between avenidas 8 and 10 (Phone: 192).
If there is space for the dates you are interested in, you must
prepay the entrance fee as well as the shelter use fee (per person
per day).
Getting there:
A vehicle will get you as far as the town of San Gerardo de Rivas
(about 18 km. northeast of San Isidro del General), from there it
is a 16 km. hike to the shelters near the geological formation known
as Los Crestones. Using the shelter as a base camp, it is another
6 km. to the actual summit of Mt. Chirripó. Since the hike
to the shelters takes about 10 hours, it is a good idea to get an
early start and it is possible to overnight in San Gerardo as there
are a couple of places with rather basic accommodations available.
In the dry season, January to March, pack horses can be rented in
San Gerardo for taking gear up to the base camp.
Climate:
Given the 3,500 meter elevation at the shelters, it can get quite
cold. Overnight lows near the freezing point are the norm, and temperatures
of -8 degrees Celsius have been recorded. Wind and rain can combine
to make for very uncomfortable conditions on the summit, so those
hearty souls that attempt this climb ought to go well-prepared.
On the other hand, clear sunny days can produce temperatures as
balmy as 24 degrees Celsius and provide an unsurpassed view of Costa
Rica from coast to coast.
History:
Being as isolated as it is and not on the route to anywhere else,
little human history is associated with Mt. Chirripó, in
fact, the earliest record of a non-indigenous person reaching the
summit was only in 1904, when a priest named Agustín Blessing
made the ascent. National park status was given to the area in 1975
to protect both the paramo habitat (the largest extent of this vegetation
type found in Costa Rica) and the oak forests below.
Many thanks to Richard Garrigues
for this valuable information. You can visit Richard at his site:
http://www.angelfire.com/bc/gonebirding/
