The following is general information presented on the many Costa Rica
National Parks. While much of Costa Rica has been stripped of its forests,
the country has managed to protect a larger proportion of its land than
any other country in the world. In 1970 there came a growing acknowledgment
that something unique and lovely was vanishing, and a systematic effort
was begun to save what was left of the wilderness. That year, the Costa
Ricans formed a national park system that has won worldwide admiration.
Costa Rican law declared inviolate 10.27 percent of a land once compared
to Eden; an additional 17 percent is legally set aside as forest reserves,
"buffer zones," wildlife refuges, and Indian reserves. Throughout
the country representative sections of all the major habitats and ecosystems
are protected for tomorrow's generations. The National Conservation
Areas System (SINAC) protects more than 186 areas, including--at press
time--32 national parks, eight biological reserves, 13 forest reserves,
and 51 wildlife refuges.
The Yellowstones and Yosemites of Costa Rica--the
lure for 90 percent of all visitors to the park system--are Manuel Antonio,
with its beautiful beaches; Braulio Carrillo, with its rainforest beside
a highway; Tortuguero, a watery, forested world teeming with wildlife;
Irazú, where on a clear day you can see both the Caribbean and
the Pacific; and Poás, where you can peer into a steaming crater
and see the earth's crust being rearranged.
Besides providing Costa Ricans and foreign travelers
with the privilege of admiring and studying the wonders of nature, the
Costa Rica National Parks and reserves protect the soil and watersheds
and harbor an estimated 75 percent of all Costa Rica's species of flora
and fauna, including species that have all but disappeared in neighboring
countries.
Caño
Negro National Wildlife Refuge:
This nearly 10,000 hectare refuge is important as a wintering site for
migrant waterfowl, as well as a year-round habitat for resident wetland
species. From October to April, when the migrant birds are at the refuge,
the variety of species and sheer quantity of individuals creates a spectacle
that even non-birdwatchers will marvel at. Among the many birds usually
present then are: Wood Stork, White Ibis, Glossy Ibis, Black-necked
Stilt, Anhinga, Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, Snail Kite, American Widgeon,
Northern Shoveler, and Blue-winged Teal. One species that birdwatchers
hope to see here is the Nicaraguan Grackle, since in Costa Rica it is
found only in marshy areas just south of Lake Nicaragua.
During the winter residents' visit, the habitat
at Caño Negro undergoes a dramatic seasonal change. With the
water accumulated in the rainy season, a shallow lake of some 800 ha.
is formed. As the dry season progresses from December to March, the
lake dries up. By April, all that is left is the main channel of the
Río Frio (Cold River).
Getting there:
Most of the increasing number of visitors to the area come from hotels
in the San Carlos region and drive to the town of Los Chiles, near the
Nicaraguan border. Here a number of boats are kept at the town dock
that can be hired for the approximately 15-kilometer trip upriver to
Playuelas on the northern edge of the refuge. However, in March 1998,
a bridge was completed across the Río Frio making it possible
to drive to the actual village of Caño Negro. The turn off to
the bridge is several kilometers before Los Chiles (at Jobo?).
An alternative approach is to drive to Upala
(especially for those coming from Guanacaste) and continue east on a
gravel road for 36 km. until reaching the village of Caño Negro.
Here dugout canoes can be hired for exploration of the marsh area. (Given
the nature of the principal kind of habitat protected at Caño
Negro, there are at present no hiking trails.)
Buses from San José service both the towns
of Upala and Los Chiles. There is a bus that runs from Upala to Caño
Negro.
Fishing:
The Río Frio is just now becoming discovered by vacationing fishermen,
and although it doesn't yet have much infrastructure available, it has
good fishing for snook, guapote, alligator gar, drum, and huge tarpon
(up to 90 kg., by some sight estimates). The legal fishing season for
this area is from September 1 to March 31.
Climate:
Daytime temperatures are quite warm and it is usually humid. Although
Caño Negro is on the Atlantic side of Costa Rica, it is far enough
inland in the northern plains to have a weather pattern with a short
but distinct dry season from January to April.
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Arenal National
Park:

Undisputedly one of Costa Rica's foremost tourist
attractions, the highly eruptive Arenal Volcano is the centerpiece of
this new Costa Rica National Park declared in October of 1994. In addition
to including in the national park system what is currently one of the
world's most active volcanoes, the area now under park service protection
encompasses the watersheds of several rivers and streams that flow into
Lake Arenal, the country's most important source of hydroelectric power.
The imposing Arenal Volcano rises in nearly perfect
conical form out of the western end of the San Carlos plains. Its periodic
eruptions of ash and molten rock, accompanied by thundering sonic blasts,
are an unforgettable experience anytime, but become extremely spectacular
after dark. When the light of day has dimmed, the glowing red igneous
rocks ejected with each eruption trace fiery arches in the night sky
before crashing down on the steep slopes and finally extinguishing themselves.
Columns of lava also push their way down the
sides of the volcano and pieces of the advancing sections continually
break off under the weight of new flows bearing down from above. At
night, these falling pieces are visible as chunks of rolling red rocks,
adding to the natural fireworks display between the frequent eruptions.
From the 600-meter elevation where visitors are
allowed to approach atop a lava flow from the 1968 eruption, Arenal
rises another 1000 meters to its 1,633-meter summit, and although the
peak is still 3 kilometers away, it is definitely "in your face!"
There is little vegetation or wildlife to be
seen in the immediate area of the main viewing site since the effects
of the major devastating eruption of 1968 are only slowly being overcome.
Nevertheless, this area offers a unique opportunity to witness the early
stages of lava flow colonization by a handful of plant species adapted
to the task. Farther away there are other areas which escaped direct
damage and provide better wildlife viewing in the forested sections,
however, as yet the park service does not maintain any well-marked trails
in these areas, which include the dormant Volcano Chato to the southeast
of Arenal.
Getting there:
A bit of a long way from anywhere, Arenal National Park is most quickly
reached from San José by taking the PanAmerican Highway west
to the town of San Ramón and the road north through Angeles,
La Tigra, and Chachagua to La Fortuna. Driving west out of La Fortuna,
the road takes you 180 degrees around the volcano to the park ranger
station.
There is public bus service from both San José
and Ciudad Quesada to La Fortuna.
An alternative, and equally scenic, route for
those coming from Guanacaste is to take the PanAmerican Highway to the
town of Cañas and then drive up into the hills to the town of
Tilarán and follow Lake Arenal around its northern shore to the
base of the volcano.
Fishing:
see Lake Arenal.
Climate:
Being under the influence of Caribbean slope weather patterns, Arenal
Volcano receives anywhere from 3.5 to 5 meters of rain per year. Even
when it isn't raining, clouds often gather around the volcano's peak,
obliterating a full view of the mountain. At lower elevations within
the park (e.g., the viewing area at the volcano's western base), the
temperatures are warm during the day, but can get chilly at night, especially
if there is a breeze.
History: The settlers that colonized this region
in the early part of the 20th century referred to Arenal Volcano as
"the mountain" and apparently, despite its conical shape,
did not realize it for what it is. Thus, when the quiescent volcano
exploded on July 29, 1968, producing a cloud of hot volcanic gases and
covering several square kilometers with lava, some 87 people living
in the areas of Tabacón and Pueblo Nuevo lost their lives.
Since this tragic eruption (the first following
at least 300 years of inactivity, according to some geologists), Arenal
has remained active, but fortunately at a level posing little threat
to visitors.
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Poás
Volcano National Park:

Like the other volcanoes in the
Central Volcanic Cordillera, the silhouette of Poás Volcano as
seen from the Central Valley gives no hint of the power and pent-up
fury below the surface. But once at the summit and standing on the crater's
rim, it becomes easier to understand the forces that have shaped this
region of the planet.
With a diameter of 1.5 km., the active crater
is reportedly the widest of any volcano in the world. If it is clear
enough to see to the bottom of the 300-meter deep crater, you will surely
observe some type of activity ranging from fumaroles to bubbling emissions
on the surface of the small rain-filled lake to actual geyser-type eruptions,
but it is constantly changing. During the early 1990s, there was enough
geyser activity to cause the lake to lose its water by the end of the
dry season (April/May); this resulted in increased gaseous emanations
that forced the park to close on a few occasions.
Looking to the left of the crater you can see
the deleterious effects of the volcanic gases that cause a localized
form of acid rain. For several kilometers downwind from the crater the
vegetation is brown and dying. On exceptionally clear days you can see
the top of Arenal Volcano (60 km. distant) by looking in this direction.
If you keep your eye on it long enough, you may be able to see the cloud
of ash that accompanies an eruption.
A few meters back down the trail from the active
crater overlook, a 1.5 km. trail leads off to Lake Botos, a densely
forested dormant crater filled with rain water. A portion of this trail
goes through an eerie-looking section of stunted forest. The trunks
and branches of the small trees here are gnarled and twisted from the
harsh climatic conditions in exposed areas at high elevations. At the
Lake Botos overlook you'll be near the highest point in the park which
is 2,704 meters.
At this elevation wildlife is not particularly
abundant, but there is usually a fair amount of bird activity. Some
of the more common species are the Fiery-throated Hummingbird, Sooty-capped
Bush-Tanager, Slaty Flowerpiercer, Mountain Eleania, Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush,
and Black-and-yellow Silky-Flycatcher.
Given its high visitation, the National Park
Service has chosen Poás as a model park. One of the benefits
of this is the Visitors' Center which presents a thorough explanation
of volcanism and the natural history of Poás using a variety
of entertaining and informative displays.
Getting there:
From San José, drive to the town of Alajuela. Coming in from
the airport will put you on calle 2, take this street all the way through
town and follow it (Rt. 130) to Itiquis and Fraijanes, following the
signs for the volcano.
As it only takes 90 minutes to drive the paved
road to the volcano's summit, this national park receives more visitors
than any other. On weekends and holidays it is very popular with local
citizens as a picnic spot.
Climate:
It can get cool at this 2,500+ meter elevation, so layers are advised.
If it is sunny, use plenty of sunscreen because the thinner air lets
the UV rays through even more intensely than if you were at the beach.
Mornings tend to be clear, but the clouds can build up quickly. The
driest months are from January to April.
History:
Written accounts of Poás only date back to 1828, and the first
mention of volcanic activity is from 1834. Between then and the present
there have been four other periods of eruptive activity, the most recent
one lasting from 1952-54. The largest of any of these relatively recent
eruptions was in 1910 when an immense column of smoke and ash issued
from the crater. The fallout from this eruption has been estimated to
have been nearly three-quarters of a million tons of ash.
In a way, we have Poás Volcano and the
Great Smoky Mountains in Tennessee to thank for Costa Rica's extraordinary
National Park system. On a visit he made to the U.S. in the 1960's,
Park Service founder, Mario Boza, was so impressed with the Great Smokies
that upon returning to Costa Rica he drew up a management plan for Poás
Volcano as if it were a national park. This, his masters thesis, was
the start of what would become perhaps the most ambitious system of
national parks and refuges anywhere in the world.
Juan Castro Blanco
National Park:
Recently declared in 1992, this park is designed to protect the cloud
forest habitat and important watershed atop the westernmost peaks of
the Central Volcanic Cordillera. Although there have been no eruptions
recorded during recent history, the volcanic origins of this massif
are underscored by the numerous hot springs that emerge from its northern
flank. The highest points on the summit are: Porvenir Volcano (2,267
m.), Platanar Volcano (2,183 m.), and Viejo Volcano (2,060 m.).
Unfortunately, the government has yet to finance
the purchase of the private property affected by the declaration of
this park, and so to date there are no facilities for visitors.
Irazú
Volcano National Park:
At 3,432 meters above sea level, Irazú Volcano is the highest
point in the Central Volcanic Cordillera. The gently sloping southern
flank with its patchwork pattern of potatoes, cabbages, and other vegetable
crops, replaced by bucolic dairy farms at higher elevations, belies
the violent past of this sleeping behemoth that looms above the city
of Cartago.
Upon nearing the summit the destructive forces
of volcanism begin to become more noticeable with the presence of scorched
dead tree trunks that are still standing. On top of Irazú you
will find several deep craters in this barren windswept terrain that
is reminiscent of a moonscape. The high elevation itself, being just
above the tree line at this latitude, keeps the vegetation from growing
very tall, but the periodic devastating effects of eruptions help to
keep plant life rather sparse. Among the few species of birds that live
in this habitat are the aptly named Volcano Junco and Volcano Hummingbird.
As with all active volcanoes, the level and type
of activity changes periodically, often abruptly. Since the last series
of eruptions, between August of 1962 and March of 1965, Irazú's
principal crater has only emitted fumarole activity -- but things could
change again at any time.
Getting there:
From San José, take the PanAmerican Highway east to Cartago,
from where a good two-lane blacktop road (Highway 8) winds the remaining
34 km. up to the volcano's summit.
Climate:
You can always spot the real tourists on Irazú, they're the ones
wandering around in shirt sleeves and Bermuda shorts -- and shivering
to death. Don't be fooled by the fact that Costa Rica is a tropical
country, even here it's cold at 3,400 meters (overnight lows below freezing
are not uncommon). The wind chill on the summit can add to the sensation,
too, so bring along several layers to assure comfort.
The top of Irazú Volcano receives relatively
little precipitation, with an annual average rainfall of just over two
meters. The driest months are from December to April.
History:
The geological history of Irazú Volcano over the past tens of
millions of years has been deduced by geologists, but the first written
record we have of its volcanic activity only dates back to 1723 when
the Spanish Governor of Costa Rica, Diego de la Haya Fernández,
chronicled an eruption that began in February of that year. It was a
spectacular eruption that threw columns of smoke and ash into the air
and sent chunks of incandescent rock rolling down the sides of the volcano,
all accompanied by much noise and periodic seismic activity.
Since then, there are accounts of a dozen other
eruptions, some equally violent, others milder. The last series of events
was from 1962 to 1965.
In August of 1962, Irazú began belching
steam, and by early 1963 it was producing such considerable amounts
of ash and rock that people living and farming on the upper slopes had
to be evacuated. The prevailing easterly winds eventually brought a
fallout of volcanic ash over much of the Central Valley, including the
capital city of San José. It is said that the ash first began
to settle on the city the same day in March of 1963 that the former
U.S. President, John F. Kennedy, arrived in town to meet with the presidents
of Central America and promote his regional economic development plan
known as the Alliance for Progress -- an ominous portent indeed.
For the next two years, ash continued to drift
down on the residents of San José and much of the rest of the
valley making life very unpleasant and causing eye irritations and respiratory
problems for many people. Finally, in March of 1965, this period of
volcanic activity subsided, and by 1966 a rock plug had solidified and
blocked off the vent -- at least until the next time.
Tapantí
National Park:
Tucked away to the south of the Orosi Valley and north of Cerro de la
Muerte, lies this 5,090 hectare middle- to upper-elevation rain forest.
Although originally created as a National Wildlife Refuge, Tapantí
National Park is not an easy place to see mammals, even though many
species inhabit the area. Observation of birds, butterflies, and plant
life will surely prove more rewarding pursuits.
Birds at this elevation often forage in flocks
containing a variety of species, the most common ones being the Three-striped
Warbler and the Common Bush-Tanager, but the sharp-eyed observer will
also be able to pick out other species such as Spotted Barbtail, Spotted
Woodcreeper, Redheaded Barbet, and Spangle-cheeked Tanager. Numerous
hummingbird species are also often quite active around clumps of flowering
epiphytes.
The rich diversity of epiphytes (plants growing
on the trunks and branches of trees) found in this humid environment
will provide the plant enthusiast with endless surprises. Orchids in
particular are very diverse and abundant at Tapantí and careful
inspection will certainly result in finding several species in bloom
at any time of year.
Getting there:
From San José, take the PanAmerican Highway to Cartago, drive
through the town and follow Highway 10 to Paraíso (the next town
to the east). Here look for signs or ask directions to Orosi, and once
in Orosi do the same for Tapantí which is still another 14 km.
distant. The road between the town of Orosi and the national park consists
of more potholes than pavement, so take it carefully. Ironically, once
you leave pavement (shortly before entering the national park) the gravel
road actually becomes much better; this is due to its upkeep by the
national electric company versus the Municipality of Paraíso
which supposedly takes care of the "paved" portion.
By public bus from either Cartago or Orosi you
can only get as far as the village of Río Macho, some 9 kilometers
short of the park entrance.
Fishing:
The Orosi River has been stocked with rainbow trout (an introduced fish
in Costa Rica), and with a valid fishing license you can try your luck
on this scenic stream from May 1 through January 31. There is a limit
of five fish per day, and a minimum allowable size of 25 centimeters.
Freshwater species other than trout are limited to a total of five fish
per day, again with a 25 cm. minimum, and fishing for these species
is permitted from December 1 through July 31.
Climate:
Most mornings are sunny and very pleasant with mild temperatures. However,
it typically clouds over by midday, or early afternoon at the latest,
and the rains which fall almost daily in this area are usually soon
in coming. Therefore, it is recommended that you get an early start
when visiting Tapantí and bring your rain gear. A sweater or
jacket will also be welcome when the temperatures start to drop once
the sun goes behind clouds.
History:
The combination of Costa Rica's topography and numerous areas of high
annual rainfall result in a tremendous potential for hydroelectric power
production, which in fact is the source of more than 90% of the country's
electricity. The upper Orosi River watershed is located in one of the
rainiest parts of the country, receiving as much as 7 meters of rain
per year. Given the relatively close proximity to the Central Valley
-- the area of greatest energy consumption -- it was only natural that
the Costa Rican Electrical Institute (I.C.E.) should decide to develop
a hydroelectric project in this forested region. And to be able to do
so meant first constructing a road into this previously inaccessible
area.
To protect the watershed's forest cover and to
preserve its wildlife from the destruction that would accompany colonization
along the new road, Tapantí was created as a National Wildlife
Refuge in 1982. Only in 1994 did it gain National Park status.
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Guayabo National
Monument:
This is Costa Rica's premier archeological site. Although not on a par
with the large-scale pre-Columbian architecture found in some other
parts of the New World, Guayabo offers a fascinating insight into the
lives of the people who once populated the region.
The peaceful park-like setting of the area adds
to the pleasure of contemplating the raised mounds of earth supported
around their bases by large rounded stones and interconnected by cobblestone
walkways. It is assumed that buildings once stood atop these mounds,
but because they were built of perishable materials, no evidence of
them remains. Other preserved features include a still-functioning aqueduct
system, burial sites, and numerous petroglyphs. Many high-quality examples
of pottery, gold, and stone workmanship on display at the National Museum
came from this site. Archeologists estimate that half of the village
area still awaits excavation.
Given that the monument only protects 217 hectares
of land, wildlife viewing potential is rather limited. Among the creatures
that might be seen at Guayabo are the Nine-banded Armadillo, Montezuma
Oropendola, Central American Coral Snake, and Blue Morpho Butterfly.
A variety of orchids also grow in the trees in the wooded portions of
the monument grounds.
Getting there:
From the town of Turrialba (64 km. east of San José), it is 19
km. to Guayabo and signs mark the way over a road which is paved as
you leave town and eventually becomes a gravel road which is passable
year-round.
Climate:
Guayabo is located in the premontane rain forest life zone, and as such
has mild temperatures and abundant rain fall.
History:
The monument area was first given government protection in 1973 when
65 ha. were preserved due to their archeological significance. In 1980,
another executive decree enlarged the site to its present 217 ha., principally
to protect areas of forested habitat along the Guayabo River canyon.
Although there is evidence that people may have
lived in the area since as much as 2,500 years ago, it was only during
a 500 year period from 1200 to 700 years ago that Guayabo reached its
zenith both culturally and politically. Based on the geographic position
of the site, in the mountains between the Atlantic coast and the Central
Valley, and the excellent quality of the craftsmanship found in excavated
pieces of ceramics, stone, and gold, it is thought that this chieftanship
was one of power and privilege. However, for unknown reasons, prior
to the beginning of the Spanish Conquest in the New World, this once
thriving indigenous settlement slid into decline and finally abandonment.
The site was discovered in the late 1800's, presumably
by colonists who were clearing the land for coffee plantations, and
in 1882 the first excavations took place under the guidance of Anastasio
Alfaro, director of the National Museum. Following those initial digs,
many years passed until in 1968 Carlos Aguilar, working through the
University of Costa Rica, established a program of permanent excavations
on the site. Much of what is known today about Guayabo is owed to the
efforts of Aguilar and his colleagues.
Isla
Bolaños Biological Reserve:
This 14-hectare island and the surrounding marine environment were included
in the country's wildlife refuge system in 1981, primarily to protect
one of the few nesting sites for Brown Pelicans and Magnificent Frigatebirds
in Costa Rica. Some 200 pairs of pelicans nest in treetops on the northern
side of the island, while about half as many frigatebirds use similar
nest sites on the island's southern cliffs. Isla Bolaños is also
the only place in the country where American Oystercatchers have ever
been found nesting.
The waters around the island are a beautiful
clear blue and support abundant marine life.
Admission policy:
No visitation is permitted from December through March so as not to
disturb the nesting seabird colonies. At other times of the year, prior
permission must be obtained from the Park Service, either in San José
(Phone: 192) or in Santa Rosa.
Getting there:
Located in Salinas Bay near the border with Nicaragua, Isla Bolaños
is only accessible by boat. Transportation may be hired in Puerto Soley
for the 3-km. voyage to the island.
Climate:
The island receives less than a meter and a half of rain annually, making
it one of the driest places in the country. The low shrubby vegetation
that dominates the island is a result of the dry climatic conditions
and poor, rocky soil.
Santa Rosa National
Park:

One of the
first national parks to be declared, Santa Rosa is important for its
history, geology, and ecology. The old hacienda buildings have been
preserved as a cultural and historical museum, especially commemorating
the Battle of Santa Rosa in 1856.
The rocks that form much of the Santa Elena peninsula
in the extreme western sector of the park are among the oldest in Costa
Rica dating back to the Cretaceous period, some 130 million years ago.
The forested portions of the park comprise a large percentage of the
precious little remaining area of tropical dry forest habitat throughout
all of Central America.
In addition to providing refuge to the many plants
and animals adapted to dry forest conditions, Santa Rosa protects two
important sea turtle nesting beaches, Naranjo and Nancite. The latter
is one of two beaches in Costa Rica (the other is Ostional) where Pacific
Ridley Sea Turtles come ashore each year in large concentrations to
lay their eggs.
Among the many creatures inhabiting the 49,515
hectares of Santa Rosa National Park, some of the more commonly seen
species include: White-tailed Deer, Long-tongued Bats (that roost in
the historic buildings), White-throated Capuchin Monkeys, White-throated
Magpie-Jays, Orange-fronted Parakeets, and Roadside Hawks.
The vegetation in most parts of the park is characterized
by being deciduous and many plant species remain leafless for much of
the dry season as a means of conserving precious moisture. Another common
feature of the dry forest vegetation is the high percentage of plants
that have thorns or spines. The prevalence of this form of mechanical
protection has led tropical biologist, Dr. Daniel Janzen, to speculate
that this defense evolved eons ago in response to the pressure from
huge herbivores such as Giant Ground Sloths and Mastodons that once
roamed this region. Whatever the evolutionary reason may be, do be careful
what you touch or brush up against in the tropical dry forest!
Getting there:
From the town of Liberia, the main entrance to Santa Rosa National Park
lies 32 km. north on the PanAmerican Highway. Public buses going to
the town of La Cruz will let you off at the main gate. From here, it
is another 10 km. to the administration area and the historical buildings.
The 12 km. dirt road from the administration to Naranjo beach is normally
passable only in the dry season with a four-wheel-drive vehicle (check
with park service personnel before attempting this drive). Nancite beach
is restricted because of turtle nesting and research programs, so advance
permission is required to visit this beach -- which involves a difficult
hike from Naranjo beach.
The less-developed northern sector of the park,
known as Murciélago, can be reached by continuing another 10
km. north on the highway before turning left on the paved road that
winds down to the coastal village of Cuajiniquil. The park ranger station
is another 9 km. to the west.
Fishing:
Although a bit far from most of the deep-sea fishing operations in northern
Guanacaste, the Bat Islands (Islas Murciélago) off the Santa
Elena Peninsula are well-known as a productive fishing spot, and are
also a popular scuba-diving site.
Climate:
Hot throughout the year, the chance of rain is almost nil from December
to April. The rainy season which lasts from May until November is normally
punctuated by a several-week dry period in July and August.
History:
In 1855, a brilliant, but somewhat megalomaniacal, young North American
named William Walker arrived in Nicaragua in time to bolster a flailing
regime. As a result of his efforts, he set himself up as Commander-in-Chief
of Nicaragua, and with the support of a mercenary army of international
origin and the financial backing of interests from the Confederate Union
of the southern United States, began a military campaign to conquer
Central America.
His sights turned first towards Costa Rica. When
word of the invasion reached San José, President Juan Rafael
Mora organized a civilian militia to march to Guanacaste and confront
the filibusteros, as the mercenaries were known.
When the Costa Rican forces reached the hacienda
of Santa Rosa on March 20, 1856, the mercenaries were housed in the
main farm building, La Casona. The ensuing battle lasted all of fourteen
minutes with the national militia victorious in ousting the invaders.
[This being the "epic" battle of Costa Rican history gives
an insight into just how peaceful the nation's history has been.]
The filibusteros were followed back across the
border into Nicaragua where the Costa Ricans clashed again with the
mercenaries in the decisive battle in the town of Rivas on April 11,
1856.
Walker himself was not present in either of these
battles, but after seeing his plans thwarted by the valiant defense
presented by the Central American nations, he fled Nicaragua and returned
to the U.S. where he practiced law for two years in San Francisco. He
was unable to completely forget his ideas for a Central American takeover
and in 1860 he returned to the region, but was captured and put on trial
for treason by the government of Honduras. His death in front of a firing
squad put an end to this strange chapter in the region's history.
History proved that it does repeat itself, and
Santa Rosa was again the site of battles between Costa Rican troops
and invading forces from Nicaragua in both 1919 and 1955. The first
was an attempt to overthrow the dictatorship of General Federico Tinoco,
the second was a coup attempt against the government of José
Figueres Ferrer.
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Guanacaste
National Park:
Created in 1989, Guanacaste National Park was declared with the principal
intention of forming a biological corridor to connect Santa Rosa National
Park with high elevation cloud forest and Caribbean slope rain forest.
The 70,000 hectares of Guanacaste National Park extend from Santa Rosa's
border with the PanAmerican Highway northeastward to the peaks of Orosi
and Cacao Volcanoes and across the Continental Divide onto the Caribbean
slopes of these two volcanoes.
This extension of Santa Rosa will hopefully provide
a sufficiently large area of protected land to ensure the future of
wide-ranging species such as Jaguar and Mountain Lion, while at the
same time allowing those species of birds and insects that make local
seasonal migrations between the dry forest and the evergreen cloud and
rain forests to continue their annual movements without threat of continued
loss of habitat.
Getting there:
From Liberia, take the PanAmerican Highway north for 42 km. and then
take a right turn onto a dirt road (across from the turnoff for Cuajiniquil).
From here it is a rough 17 km. to the Maritza Biological Field Station.
Climate:
A wide variety of climates are represented here given the change in
elevation from 300 meters to 1,659 meters (the summit of Cacao Volcano)
within the park and the crossing from dry forest to rain forest as one
goes eastward over the Continental Divide.
History:
The creation of Guanacaste National Park was an ambitious project spearheaded
by Dr. Daniel Janzen whose efforts were critical in raising the international
donations necessary to purchase the land in question. Using the clever
slogan, "How to Grow a National Park," Janzen stressed the
need to reclaim degraded pasture land and recreate more of the severely
threatened tropical dry forest habitat as well as a biological corridor
to cooler and moister habitats.
Fortunately, the conservation campaign came at
a time when international beef prices were low and many of the ranch
owners with extensive holdings in the area were willing, if not eager,
to sell their rather nonproductive grazing lands.
Among the primary goals of Guanacaste National
Park are the desire to be "user friendly," encourage local
participation in environmental programs, and employee as many of the
previous ranch hands as possible as park personnel.
Rincón de
la Vieja National Park:

Straddling the Guanacaste Cordillera lies Rincón de la Vieja
National Park, invariably a favorite of those fortunate few people privileged
enough to have visited the majority of parks in the system. Highlights
of this park include six different life zones, abundant wildlife, gorgeous
waterfalls, fascinating geothermal features, and an active volcano.
One of the most unique and easily observed aspects
of this park is an area known as Las Pailas, a 50 ha. sector on the
southern slope of the volcano with numerous kinds of geothermal activity.
Bubbling, boiling hot mud springs, sulfur springs, steam vents, and
fumaroles are all present in this relatively small area at the base
of the volcano.
For those in good physical condition, a hike
from the Las Pailas ranger station to the volcano's summit makes for
a rigorous full day outing. The walk starts out through a magnificent
stand of tropical moist forest where the most striking trees are strangler
figs seen in every phase of the process of enveloping the doomed host
tree. As the trail continues upwards it enters premontane wet forest
and the trees become smaller and covered with epiphytic vegetation.
The last hour and a half (or more) of the hike
is on steep, exposed rock rubble that has resulted from past eruptions.
Cairns mark the way to the summit since this part of the climb is frequently
in the clouds.
Getting there:
From Liberia, take the PanAmerican Highway north for 5 km., turn right
at the village of Cereceda and continue on for 23 km. (past Hacienda
Guachipelín and Hacienda Rincón de la Vieja) to the Las
Pailas ranger station.
Climate:
Around the Las Pailas area the temperatures are quite warm (scalding
if you manage to fall into one of the geothermal features) and the typical
Guanacaste weather pattern prevails. As you go up the slopes of the
volcano, the conditions get progressively cooler and wetter.
History:
The name Rincón de la Vieja means "the old lady's nook"
and is attributed to indigenous people of the Guatuso tribe living on
the eastern side of the volcano who believed that an old witch lived
on top of the mountain and would send columns of smoke into the air
whenever she got annoyed.
Indeed, the active crater which bears this name
periodically lets off steam (and large quantities of ash, too). Since
1863, there have been at least eight episodes of intense volcanic activity,
the latest one in 1991.
Barra
Honda National Park:
Although Barra Honda National Park covers 2,295 ha., its reason for
being is not what lies on the surface, but the geological treasure housed
below. This is the only park in the country designed to protect caves.
To date, 19 separate caves have been discovered
in the limestone ridge that makes up the Barra Honda formation. The
entrances to these caves are all vertical. Therefore, ropes and climbing
equipment are necessary for those who are interested in exploring this
subterranean world. Cave depths vary from 21 to 240 meters.
In addition to stalactites and stalagmites, the
wide variety of other curious geological formations inside these caves
have given rise to the following descriptive names: soda straws, cave
grapes, curtains, terraces, pearls, flowers, needles, and even fried
eggs! Compared to many other caves with horizontal entrances, the geological
features of Barra Honda are in excellent condition owing to the difficulty
of access.
The natural vegetation that once covered much
of the park is sadly not in as perfect a condition, due to deforestation
and cattle ranching, nor is there a well-marked system of trails to
the few decent patches of forest in the park.
Admission policy:
To go spelunking in Barra Honda requires previous permission which can
be arranged through the Park Service offices in San José (phone:
192).
Getting there:
From San José, take the PanAmerican Highway north to just beyond
the entrance to Las Juntas de Abangares, look for the sign indicating
the left turn to the Tempisque Ferry. Once across the river, continue
on for about 12 km. before taking a right turn to the village of Barra
Honda (also known as Nacaome). Continue on towards the village of Santa
Ana and follow signs for the park entrance.
Climate:
Hot and dry from December through April, and hot and humid during the
rainy season.
History:
Over the course of the past 70 million years, nature has patiently worked
to create the remarkable system of caves at Barra Honda. First, millions
of years were necessary to form the marine limestone deposits derived
from ancient coral reefs. Then, seismic activity along local fault lines
was responsible for raising the ridge above sea level where rain water
and atmospheric gases could combine to dissolve away portions of the
rock, while also leaving calcium deposits in an endless pattern of strange
shapes inside the still-forming caves.
As recently as 1967, it was still a matter of
debate whether or not Barra Honda Mountain was a volcano. Credibility
was given to this belief by the foul odor and strange sounds -- likened
to the roar of a steam engine -- that emanated from one of the "craters"
on top of the ridge. As explorations of the caverns continued it became
obvious that volcanism had nothing to do with the formation of Barra
Honda and the opening that produced the smells and noise turned out
to harbor a tremendous quantity of bats. The odor came from the accumulated
guano and the "roar" was the sound made by the fluttering
wings of tens of thousands of these creatures of the night. Perhaps
even more intriguing is the question, "Why are there so few bats
found in the other caves at Barra Honda?"
Palo
Verde National Park & Dr. Rafael Lucas Rodríguez Caballero
National Wildlife Refuge:
What were formerly a national park and an adjacent national wildlife
refuge are now managed as one large conservation unit that also includes
the nearby Lomas Barbudal Biological Reserve. The Palo Verde sector
comprises 13,058 ha. of varied habitats in the lower Tempisque River
basin. Of the mangrove forests, dry forests, evergreen forests, old
pasture land, and other habitats protected here, the habitat that is
primarily responsible for the creation of the park and refuge lands
is the extensive marsh area that provides an important wintering ground
to many species of migrant North American waterfowl, as well as resident
tropical species such as the Jabiru, the largest stork in the New World.
The marshes fill up with rain and occasional
flood waters during the wet season. As the dry season progresses, the
wetlands are reduced to scattered ponds and puddles at which large concentrations
of waterfowl gather. Perhaps the most numerous species are the resident
Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks and Northern Jacanas.
Palo Verde also provides vital nesting sites
for many native species of birds, the most notable is a small island
of mangroves in the middle of the Tempisque River known as Isla Pájaros,
or Bird Island (not to be confused with another Isla Pájaros
located in the Gulf of Nicoya near Punta Morales). Cattle Egrets, Roseate
Spoonbills, Wood Storks, Anhingas, Great Egrets, and Black-crowned Night-Herons
all use this island for breeding.
During the dry season, when many of the forest trees are leafless and
water is at a premium, wildlife is often quite easily seen, especially
if you find a water source and wait quietly for the animals to come
by for a drink. Commonly seen mammals at Palo Verde include Collared
Peccaries, White-throated Capuchin Monkeys, Howler Monkeys, White-nosed
Coatis, White-tailed Deer, and Variegated Squirrels. During the wet
season, mosquitoes are quite easily seen.
Getting there:
From the intersection at the town of Bagaces on the PanAmerican Highway,
turn west onto a gravel road that leads 19 km. to the entrance station
(there are several turns en route, but the way to the park should be
posted). From the entrance it is another 9 km. to the administration
at the old Hacienda Palo Verde.
Entering by boat from the Tempisque River is
also possible. Six kilometers up river from the village of Puerto Humo
(where boats can be hired), there is a rustic dock at a spot known as
Puerto Chamorro, 2 km. beyond the administrative area via a dirt road.
Further up river from Puerto Chamorro, the Tempisque becomes very sinuous
and the riverside vegetation takes on a truly jungly aspect, adding
to the sensation of being in a Tarzan movie are the numerous American
Crocodiles that slide into the water from the banks as a boat approaches.
Climate:
Palo Verde is one of the hottest and driest parts of Costa Rica. The
dry season extends from mid-November through mid-May most years, but
does vary somewhat. If visiting during the dry season, be sure to drink
plenty of liquid and try to avoid staying in direct sunshine for very
long so as to eliminate the risk of heat exhaustion, or worse, heat
stroke.
History:
Geologically, the lower Tempisque River basin is unique in Costa Rica
since the surrounding hills are of limestone and not volcanic rock.
This material was originally formed by corals some 40 to 60 million
years ago when the area was part of the ocean floor. Subsequent shifting
of the continental plates has caused these low hills to rise to their
present heights and also changed the course of the Tempisque River that
once flowed directly out to sea in the general area of what is now the
Tamarindo National Wildlife Refuge.
In the past century, extensive cattle ranching
was the principal agricultural activity in the area that is now Palo
Verde National Park (in the greater sense). The haciendas were characterized
by having large tracts of land on which the cattle roamed and grazed
freely with little care other than periodic deparasitizing or being
rounded up and driven to market. This meant that the natural forests
suffered relatively minor disturbance and the human population level
stayed quite low, since just a few men could handle a large herd. Thus,
wildlife fortunately is still fairly abundant throughout the park and
much of the original natural habitat has been preserved.
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Lomas
Barbudal Biological Reserve:
Costa Rica's extensive system of national parks and biological reserves
contains areas which have been set aside to specifically protect nesting
beaches for sea turtles, marshlands for wintering migrant waterfowl,
nesting sites for seabirds, volcanoes, coral reefs, archeological sites,
limestone caves, and on and on. But if Lomas Barbudal was declared a
biological reserve to specifically protect anything, then it is insects.
The 2,279 ha. of dry forest habitat and patches
of evergreen forests along the streams in the reserve are estimated
to hold 240 species of bees; it's anybody's guess how many different
kinds of beetles, flies, and butterflies inhabit this relatively small
reserve.
However, if insects aren't your thing, Lomas
Barbudal has excellent birdwatching potential for the species that occur
in tropical dry forest (e.g., Long-tailed Manakin, Turquoise-browed
Motmot, Stub-tailed Spadebill, Olive Sparrow, and Black-headed Trogon).
In the dry season, mammals can usually be found enjoying the cool shade
of the evergreen forest along the Cabuyo River. Mantled Howler Monkeys,
White-throated Capuchin Monkeys, Variegated Squirrels, Banded Anteaters,
and Tayras (an all black member of the weasel family) are among the
possible species that can be seen here.
When the hillside forests turn brown and leafless
in the dry season, some visual relief is given by the colorful blossoms
of flowering trees that dot the landscape -- and provide pollen and
nectar to all those bees!
Getting there:
From Bagaces, continue north on the PanAmerican Highway for about 12
km. and look for a sign indicating the left turn onto a gravel road
that takes you the remaining 4 km. to the reserve entrance.
Climate:
Hot year-round with a pronounced dry season from December through April.
Las
Baulas Marine National Park:
Another newcomer to the list of Costa Rican national parks, Las Baulas
was declared to protect two important nesting beaches for the Giant
Leatherback Sea Turtle, as well as offshore areas where these large
marine reptiles spend their days during the breeding season.
Leatherbacks, known as baulas in Costa Rica,
are the largest of the world's seven species of sea turtles, averaging
350 kg. and more than a meter and a half in length. Watching one of
these great ancient beasts come ashore at night to continue the age-old
tradition of nesting in tropical sands is a very moving experience for
most people, although others find the two-hour process a bit more than
their patience and interest levels can tolerate.
In Costa Rica, this species can be found nesting
at a number of beaches on both coasts, however, two of the more heavily
used beaches are Playa Grande (Big Beach) and Playa Langosta (Lobster
Beach), to the north and south, respectively, of Tamarindo Beach. Together,
the aforementioned two beaches make up Las Baulas Marine National Park.
The nesting season at Las Baulas extends from
October through February. When away from their breeding sites, leatherbacks
range widely throughout the world's oceans searching for their principal
food, jellyfish.
Admission policy:
All visitors on the beach at night must be accompanied by a certified
local guide (available at the entrance to the beach during the nesting
season).
Getting there:
From the intersection on the PanAmerican Highway at Liberia, drive west
towards the Pacific coast. At the town of Belén, take a right
turn and continue on paved road for 21 km. until reaching the community
of Huacas. Here follow a gravel road 8 km. further through the town
of Matapalo and on to Salinas, where you enter the national park on
Playa Grande.
Fishing:
Located in the most developed part of the country for deep-sea fishing,
a dozen or more operators between Playa del Coco and Tamarindo offer
charter boat service with the target species being Blue Marlin, Black
Marlin, and Pacific Sailfish. Between the three species, there's usually
action all year long. Other fish that help pick up the slack if the
billfish aren't biting are Dorado (Mahi-mahi), Wahoo, and Roosterfish.
Climate:
Hot during the daytime, evenings are usually a very pleasant temperature,
although when the winds pick up from December through February, a jacket
or sweater might be wanted while out looking for turtles. The rainy
season lasts from May to November.
Tamarindo
National Wildlife Refuge:
This small wildlife refuge was declared to protect a mangrove swamp
that is unusual in having no freshwater input during nearly half the
year. Given the severity of the dry season in this coastal region of
northern Guanacaste, the creeks that feed the estuary during the rainy
season completely dry up after the rains have stopped.
Five species of mangroves (botanically unrelated
trees that have each evolved methods for tolerating life in a brackish
water environment where the soil is so waterlogged that oxygen cannot
readily be obtained through the underground roots) exist in the Tamarindo
estuary and provide an important spawning site for many fish and other
marine creatures. An assortment of birds can be found in this habitat,
many of them seasonal migrants from North America. One of the more peculiar
species encountered here is the Lesser Nighthawk (a relative of the
Whip-poor-will), which sleeps lengthwise during the day on low branches
in the mangroves, its mottled gray and brown plumage causing it to blend
in extremely well with the environment.
There is an average two and a half meter difference
between high and low tide on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica, and when
the tide is out in the mangroves you can observe the protruding vertical
roots (or pneumatophores) of the Black Mangrove. These short projections
stick up out of the mud to help aerate the plants. During the dry season,
you can also see how this species of mangrove plant exudes particles
of salt on the surface of its leaves (in the rainy season the salts
are washed off and do not accumulate so as to be visible).
Howler Monkeys, White-throated Capuchin Monkeys,
Raccoons, Spectacled Caimans, and Lineated Basilisk Lizards are among
the other kinds of wildlife that can be spotted on a boat ride through
the mangroves.
Getting there:
From the intersection on the PanAmerican Highway at Liberia, drive west
towards the Pacific coast. At the town of Belén, take a right
turn and continue on paved road for 21 km. until reaching the community
of Huacas. Here turn left, staying on pavement, and continue to Villareal
and then Tamarindo, where boats can be hired for touring the estuary.
Fishing:
Located in the most developed part of the country for deep-sea fishing,
a dozen or more operators between Playa del Coco and Tamarindo offer
charter boat service with the target species being Blue Marlin, Black
Marlin, and Pacific Sailfish. Between the three species, there's usually
action all year long. Other fish that help pick up the slack if the
billfish aren't biting are Dorado (Mahi-mahi), Wahoo, and Roosterfish.
Climate:
Hot year-round, the dry season lasts from about mid-November to mid-May.
History:
In a response to the perceived threat the estuary faced from plans to
build large tourism complexes on its fringes, the government, urged
by concerned residents of the Tamarindo area, decreed it the status
of national wildlife refuge.
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Ostional
National Wildlife Refuge:
This refuge was declared to protect a major nesting beach for Pacific
Ridley Sea Turtles, as well as the waters offshore from the beach.
Several times a year, female turtles come ashore
in such numbers that the sandy beach begins to resemble a stretch of
rocky coastline. These mass nesting episodes are locally referred to
as "arribadas," or arrivals. One of these events can last
from two to eight days with most nesting taking place at night.
Locals will tell you that the arribadas begin
three or four nights after the full moon, and this is typically the
case in months when relatively small numbers of individuals nest, but
during the peak nesting season from July through November when more
than 100,000 nests may be made during a single arribada, any correlation
with phases of the moon or the tides breaks down completely. What triggers
the mass nestings is still a mystery.
Scientists suggest that this species produces
a superabundance of nests as a strategy for survival against predators,
since with so many eggs laid in just a few nights (a million or more
during a large arribada) it is unlikely that the local natural predators
could possibly consume them all. Likewise, when the surviving eggs hatch
and the young turtles make their scramble down the beach to the ocean,
if thousands of them are doing this at more or less the same time, then
some percentage of them ought to escape the variety of hungry predators
that range from crabs to coyotes.
Getting there:
Vehicular access to Ostional is somewhat challenging, and a four-wheel-drive
vehicle with good clearance is definitely recommended, especially if
going in the wet season when the bulk of the sea turtle nesting occurs.
The refuge can be reached from either the town of Santa Cruz or Nicoya
(both situated on the main highway that runs down the middle of the
Nicoya Peninsula), and following a series of gravel and dirt roads to
the coast (at Playa Junquillal if coming from Santa Cruz, or Playa Nosara
if coming from Nicoya) and continuing south or north, respectively,
until arriving at Ostional. Although more direct, the route via Nicoya-Nosara
involves fording a river which can be impassable at times in the rainy
season.
To improve your chances of seeing turtles, you
can try contacting the village of Ostional to find out the current status
of nesting. To do so, you'll need to speak some Spanish since the phone
(682-0267) is the local public phone in the village.
Fishing:
To the south of Ostional Beach there are a number of charter operations
between Nosara and Carrillo that can take you fishing for Sailfish,
Marlin, Tuna, Mackerel, Wahoo, Bonito, Amberjack, Roosterfish, Snapper,
and other game species found along this section of the Pacific coast.
Climate:
The afternoon showers that characterize the months from May through
November can make getting to the Ostional National Wildlife Refuge a
bit difficult during the peak nesting season for Pacific Ridley Sea
Turtles, however, this beach is still far more accessible than the only
other beach in the country where this same phenomenon occurs, Nancite
Beach in Santa Rosa National Park. Daytime temperatures are hot throughout
the year, evenings are comfortable.
History:
The creation of the Ostional National Wildlife Refuge is a wonderful
example of the "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em" philosophy
in conservation. For many years, the wholesale ransacking of turtle
nests for eggs was a seasonal activity indulged in by people from all
over the region, and from even as far away as San José. The widespread
belief that consumption of turtle eggs produces aphrodisiacal effects
has led to their popular demand as bocas (snacks served as appetizers
in local cantinas).
Hampered by insufficient funding to adequately
patrol the beach at Ostional, while at the same time needing the support
of the local villagers, the wildlife authorities proposed a new scheme
with the declaration of the refuge. The proposal was that Ostional residents,
and only Ostional residents, would be granted permission to harvest
a limited number of eggs during the first two nights of each nesting
period and sell them only to bars with licenses to serve turtle eggs.
The idea was to get the local populace to function as a police force
to safeguard their own interests and protect the later nests at the
same time since these have a better chance of success (early nests are
often inadvertently excavated by turtles arriving later on during an
arribada).
This novel policy has generated much debate,
but it seems to be working effectively.
Braulio Carrillo
National Park

(Barva Volcano sector):
Although Barva Volcano has not been active for many millennia, it is
in some ways more attractive than either of its neighbors in the Central
Volcanic Cordillera, Poás and Irazú. Barva's dormancy
has allowed the majestic highland forest to cover its misty summit,
and thus, the associated wildlife is more abundant here than at the
two aforementioned volcanoes. At 2906 meters above sea level at its
highest point, Barva reaches 200 meters higher than Poás, yet
does not approach the timberline as Irazú does at another 500
meters in elevation.
From the ranger station at the entrance to this
sector of Braulio Carrillo National Park, there is a fairly flat 1.5-kilometer
trail to the Laguna Barva, a rainwater filled lake inside a long-inactive
crater. For the really intrepid (and well-prepared) hiker, there is
a trail which descends down an elevational transect from the top of
the volcano to a mere 35 meters above sea level at La Selva Biological
Station -- in other words, an almost 3,000 meter drop in 60 kilometers
of trail. This hike takes about four days and requires serious planning.
Prior permission should also be obtained from the Park Service.
The epiphyte-laden cloud forests on top of Barva
Volcano are home to many beautiful birds found only in the highlands,
a few examples being the Resplendent Quetzal, Golden-browed Chlorophonia,
Flame-throated Warbler, and Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher.
Getting there:
To drive all the way to the Barva Volcano ranger station, a four-wheel-drive
vehicle with good clearance is necessary, otherwise you'll have to park
about three kilometers down the hill from the station and walk up. Even
getting that far, however, is not easy since the route is not well marked.
From San José, drive to Heredia and head
north out of town towards Barva; from here, continue on to the villages
of Birrí, Porrosatí, and Sacramento (where the pavement
ends). The route winds up through coffee plantations and dairy farms
and is quite scenic, but since there are several places where you could
take a wrong turn, it's a good idea to ask directions frequently. The
best way to see this part of Braulio Carrillo National Park is probably
to use the services of an experienced local tour operator.
Climate:
The high elevation of Barva Volcano means cool temperatures, so have
several layers of clothing to be comfortable. From May through November,
afternoon showers are a strong likelihood. It can be blustery and misty
from December through February. March and April are the driest and calmest
months, but even then you could get wet. Waterproof footwear is highly
recommended.
History:
The creation of the extension of Braulio Carrillo National Park from
Barva Volcano down to the Atlantic lowlands, where the park abuts the
La Selva Biological Station, was an ambitious achievement in tropical
conservation. Declared a Protected Zone in 1982, this altitudinal transect
of almost 3,000 meters in elevation was officially decreed as part of
the park by the out-going President Luis Alberto Monge in 1986, after
an international campaign had been successful in raising more than two
million dollars for purchasing the 12,700 hectares of land in question.
The various life zones protected in this extension
to the park are important not only as home to the plants and animals
that are adapted to live in each of them, but also as seasonal home
to the many creatures, particularly birds, that migrate up and down
slopes within the tropics in search of food resources, especially flowering
and/or fruiting plants.
Braulio Carrillo National Park (Zurquí
sector):
Consisting of 44,099 hectares of virgin rain forest, this is one of
Costa Rica's largest national parks. Although the park extends into
portions of four different provinces, most visitors enter via the highway
from San Jose. Only 30 minutes away from downtown, entering the park
is like entering another world -- one of endless verdure and dripping
with the frequent mists and rains that bathe the upper reaches of the
mountain pass that the road winds through.
As you continue following the highway through the park you will descend
from an elevation of more than 1500 meters to less than 500 meters above
sea level on the Caribbean side of the Barva Volcano massif. Although
perhaps not immediately apparent to the average visitor, there is a
nearly complete change of flora and fauna between the two ends of this
1000 meter elevational transect. Trails at both the upper and lower
ranger stations allow access to the rain forest, however, be careful
as they have some steep and slippery sections. Also, caution should
be used if stopping anywhere along the highway other than at the ranger
stations as, unfortunately, there have been numerous cases during the
past few years of tourists being robbed at gunpoint while attempting
to use trails where there is no park service vigilance.
When crossing the Río Sucio bridge, be
sure to look upstream (on your right if traveling from San José
towards Limón). Here the Río Sucio (literally "Dirty
River") joins the Río Hondura which comes in from the right.
Unless it has been raining very heavily, the difference between these
two streams is striking -- the Hondura is a clear mountain stream, while
the Sucio can vary from grayish to reddish-orange due to its origins
on the ash-covered upper slopes of Irazú Volcano!
Among the more than 400 species of birds known
from Braulio Carrillo National Park, a few of the more sought after
species by inveterate birdwatchers are: Bare-necked Umbrellabird, Snowcap,
Sharpbill, Brown-billed Scythebill, Black-crowned Antpitta, Yellow-eared
Toucanet, and Latticed-tailed Trogon. Tanagers and hummingbirds, in
particular, abound in the lower and middle elevations of the park. The
mammals are similarly diverse, but usually not easily seen. Several
of the relatively more common species are: Deppe's Squirrel, White-nosed
Coati, White-throated Capuchin, and Northern Tamandua.
Getting there:
From downtown San José take Calle 3 out of town, where it becomes
the new highway to Limón. By bus, take either the Guápiles,
Siquirres, or Limón bus to either of the ranger stations; however,
please note that not all buses will necessarily stop to pick you up
on the return (if they're full they probably won't stop).
Climate:
Be prepared for rain! The temperature at the upper ranger station can
often be chilly, so a jacket or sweater will come in handy. It is usually
comfortably warm at the lower station, although if the sun is out it
can be hot. Boots are definitely recommended for the trails as they
are rarely dry.
History:
When the government announced plans in 1973 to build a new highway to
Limón through a mountainous area of essentially virgin rain forest,
local conservationists were instrumental in persuading the authorities
to declare a new national park to protect this important area from settlement
-- historically the case wherever a new transportation route is put
through an unpopulated region.
The park was created in 1978 and named after
the nation's third Chief of State, Braulio Carrillo, who, as one of
Costa Rica's principal promoters of coffee plantations in the 1830's,
proposed that a road be built to connect the Central Valley with the
Caribbean coast so that the invaluable beans could reach European markets
in much less time than it took to ship them from Puntarenas and around
the tip of South America. Although the project was not carried out in
his lifetime, a cobblestone oxcart path was constructed in the 1880's
to fulfill that purpose. It was only used for a decade or so, however,
because in 1895 the railroad from San José to Limón was
inaugurated.
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Barra del
Colorado National Wildlife Refuge:

This sprawling 92,000 ha. refuge is geologically and ecologically similar
to Tortuguero National Park, with which it practically abuts on the
southern boundary. The northern boundary is formed by the San Juan River
(the border with Nicaragua) and runs from its mouth on the Caribbean
coast, upriver to just east of the mouth of the Sarapiquí River.
The protected status of this region has come
only recently and, unfortunately, after the clearing of much of the
eastern sector for farming. A boat ride along the San Juan River dramatically
demonstrates the difference in regional land use between the two countries.
Much of the Costa Rican side is deforested right to the river bank,
while the Nicaraguan side is a veritable wall of impenetrable jungle
(and is part of a gargantuan protected area known as Indio Maíz).
The portions of the refuge nearer the coast are
more heavily forested, although there are still small farms and clearings
scattered about. Much of this sector is characterized by swampy soil
that is readily flooded during periods of heavy rains and not at all
suitable for agricultural activities.
A labyrinth of creeks and lagoons provides abundant
freshwater habitat for myriad creatures from minuscule shrimp that live
among the floating mats of water hyacinth to the large bull sharks that
seasonally migrate into the area (and all the way to Lake Nicaragua)
from the Caribbean Sea. Tarpon and snook also make annual forays into
the freshwater system and the village of Barra del Colorado is a Mecca
for enthusiastic sport fishermen looking for a potential world-record
catch or just a good day of solid fishing.
As in Tortuguero, wildlife viewing from a boat
can produce looks at Central American Spider Monkeys, Mantled Howler
Monkeys, Three-toed Sloths, Great Green Macaws, Laughing Falcons, Keel-billed
Toucans, Northern Jacanas, and a plethora of other mammals, birds, reptiles,
insects, and, of course, fascinating tropical plant life.
Getting there:
By boat, Barra del Colorado can be reached by taking the canal system
114 km. north from Limón (the dock at Moín), or by coming
down the Sarapiquí River from Puerto Viejo. Flying from San José
takes just over half an hour in a chartered light plane or one of the
regularly scheduled flights on either SANSA or TravelAir airlines.
Fishing:
Reputedly the best tarpon and snook fishing in the world! And even if
the fish aren't biting on a given day, you can't beat the placid rain
forest scenery. Numerous lodges exist in the Barra del Colorado area
and are fully-equipped to cater to the fishing clientele. For those
looking for a change of pace from fighting the powerful "Silver
Kings," as Atlantic Tarpon are sometimes called, there is the option
of going after smaller species such as Guapote, Mojarra, Machaca, Drum,
and Alligator Gar using light tackle in the quiet backwater areas.
Climate:
Warm throughout the year, rain is possible anytime, although the driest
months are March and April.
History:
This recent addition to the National Park Service system came about
as part of an ambitious regional project known as "The Path of
the Panther," which is an attempt to preserve a biological corridor
from southern Mexico to Panama along the Caribbean side of the isthmus.
The declaration of this large area as a wildlife refuge is an important
first step to the protection of the remaining wilderness in the country's
northeastern corner.
Tortuguero National
Park:
The creation of this park in 1970 gave much needed protection to one
of the region's most important and unique natural resources: a 22-km.
stretch of shoreline that serves as the principal nesting site throughout
the western half of the Caribbean Sea for the Atlantic Green Sea Turtle.
Watching these great reptiles emerge from the tropical sea and haul
their 100+ kg. bodies ashore to lay their eggs under cover of darkness
is truly a memorable spectacle. The nesting season for the green turtles
extends from July to October.
An even larger species, the Leatherback Sea Turtle,
also nests on these beaches from February to April, although most nesting
is done in the southern portion of the park, far from the actual village
of Tortuguero.
In addition to this vital strip of coastline, Tortuguero National Park
protects 18,946 ha. of forested habit and an extensive network of freshwater
creeks and lagoons. The aquatic environment is home to 7 species of
river turtles, as well as Spectacled Caiman, Southern River Otters,
the scarce and hard to see West Indian Manatee, the fierce-looking Alligator
Gar -- a fish which has remained nearly unchanged in appearance since
prehistoric times -- and numerous other fish species including Atlantic
Snook and Atlantic Tarpon which bring anxious anglers to this region
from all over the world.
Gliding through the tranquil backwaters in a
small boat is as enjoyable and rewarding a way to watch wildlife as
you're likely to find anywhere. And even if most of the diverse assortment
of rain forest denizens manages to elude your gaze, the experience alone,
along with the wonderful forest sounds, make this activity one of the
highlights of any visit.
In 1994, the Caribbean Conservation Corporation
finished a new Visitors Center Building just north of the village of
Tortuguero and the exhibits on display are very well done and most informative.
Admission policy:
Night walks on the beach to observe nesting sea turtles must be in the
company of a trained and authorized local guide (arrangements can be
made through any of the area hotels).
Getting there:
Accessible only by boat or plane. The 30-minute flight from San José
can be arranged with any of the private charter companies, or on the
regularly scheduled TravelAir service.
Boats can be hired in Moín (just north
of Limón) to take you up the canal system to Tortuguero. The
length of time depends on the vessel (averages between two and four
hours). Tortuguero can also be reached by boat from Puerto Viejo de
Sarapiquí. This is a longer, but equally scenic journey which
takes you down the Sarapiquí River to the San Juan River (at
which point you will technically be in Nicaragua and thus must go through
the corresponding border checks on both sides of the river), and then
through Barra del Colorado Wildlife Refuge to Tortuguero. This route
usually takes from four to six hours.
Fishing: The species and conditions are
essentially the same as at Barra del Colorado.
Climate:
This coastal region receives four to five meters of rain per year (sometimes
more), so expect very warm and humid conditions.
History:
The low-lying areas are of relatively recent geological formation being
alluvial sediments washed down from the interior mountains, but the
few hilly places in the region, including Tortuguero Hill near the mouth
of the Tortuguero River, are remnant volcanic formations that date back
to when this portion of Central America consisted of nothing more than
an archipelago of volcanic islands.
At some time in the region's history, sea turtles
discovered that the beach here made a suitable nesting site and have
continued to return faithfully ever since. However, the Green Sea Turtle
nearly declined to extinction due to excessive harvesting of its meat
for turtle soup and of eggs poached from the nests for their supposed
aphrodisiacal properties.
Fortunately, the efforts of the late Dr. Archie
Carr, a biologist from the University of Florida, in Gainesville, were
in time to initiate the preservation of the species before it was too
late. In 1959, he formed the Caribbean Conservation Corporation for
the purpose of studying and protecting sea turtles throughout the region.
The turtle tagging program begun at Tortuguero in 1955 is still continuing
today and has yielded much information about these enigmatic creatures.
Many
thanks to Richard Garrigues for this valuable information. You can visit
Richard at his site: http://www.angelfire.com/bc/gonebirding/
CONTINUE
TO PART 2 COSTA RICA NATIONAL PARKS